JCI
Tradework & restoration stone setting appraisals Corporate recognition stone inventory custom design
Glossary
Appraisals
Colored Stones and Diamonds
Corporate Design
Custom Design and Manufacturing
Jewelry Tradework, Design, and Restoration
Stone Cutting
Stone Setting


Appraisals

Blemish – Imperfections found on the external surface of a diamond.

Brilliance – The light that is reflected from the diamond to the eye, or the amount of sparkle for a particular diamond.

Carat – A unit of measurement of weight for diamonds and gemstones. Diamonds can range from small fractions of a carat to many carats. (See Four Cs below.)

Certification – A certification presents an objective description of the individual qualities that determine a diamond's value and worth, as evaluated by professional gemologists.

Clarity Grade – A category used to describe the amount or absence of inclusions within a diamond or other gemstone.

Color Grade – A category used to describe the amount or absence of color, typically yellow, within a diamond or other gemstone.

Diamond Clarity – The amount or absence of inclusions in and blemishes on a diamond, ranging from flawless to included/imperfect. (See Four Cs below.)

Diamond Color – The amount of body color (tint) in a diamond on a scale from colorless to yellow/brown or gray. (See Four Cs below.)

Diamond Cut – Cut refers to the proportions of a stone, facet angles, finish and shape. (See Four Cs below.)

Flawless – The highest grading on the clarity scale. A flawless diamond has no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification.

Four Cs – The four distinct characteristics that classify each diamond. These are: cut, color, clarity and carat weight. Using these classifications, appraisers establish the value and quality of diamonds.

Gemologist – A specialist in gems; one who appraises gems.

Inclusions – Natural characteristics found in nearly all diamonds, formed during crystallization. Some are microscopic and cannot be seen with the naked eye.

Karat – The standard measurement of gold.

Loupe – A magnification tool used to analyze gemstones, diamonds, and other jewelry materials.

Luster – Depth and hue of the reflection from opals, pearls, or other opaque stone jewelry.

Colored Stones, Gemstones, and Diamonds

Aquamarine – A blue-green mineral from the beryl family.

Amethyst – A purple form of quartz.

Blue Topaz – The most common form of topaz.

Citrine – A yellow variety of quartz.

Diamond – The hardest known natural mineral.

Emerald – A member of the beryl family, found in all shades of green.

Garnet – A reddish-brown stone. Less common varieties are found in all colors except blue.

Onyx – A black gemstone.

Opal – A gemstone made of the mineral hydrated silica, noted for its iridescence.

Mohs Scale – Devised by German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs, the Mohs Scale grades minerals on a comparative scale from 1 (very soft) to 10 (very hard).

Peridot – A gemstone known for its yellow-green color.

Ruby – The red form of the mineral, corundum; the second-known hardest mineral, along with sapphires.

Sapphire – A form of corundum, in every color except red. Sapphires, along with rubies, are the second-known hardest mineral.

Tanzanite – Known for its bluish-purple hues; a fairly new gemstone discovered in Tanzania in 1967.

Tourmaline – A heat-resistant, durable gemstone that occurs in more colors or combination of colors than any other gemstone.

Corporate Design

3D Casting – Casting technique to create three-dimensional sculptured effects using deep dimensions and relief, which can enhance emblematic jewelry.

Lost Wax Casting – The method of casting intricate metal shapes, especially emblems and corporate designs, by creating a wax model, covering it with a refractory to make a mold, applying heat to melt the wax away, and pouring melted metal into the cavity of the new mold.

Etching – A precise form of engraving fine details on metal using acid.

Die Struck – A technique used to create deep recesses in metal to accept paint, achieving a multidimensional effect ideal for emblems with light detail.

Inlay – A technique in which pieces of materials are inserted into depressions of a jewelry piece to form patterns or pictures.

Relief Engraving – The removal of the background, or negative space, leaving a raised design; quality relief engraving produces a deeply cut background with a flat bottom and sharp, smooth sidewalls.

Custom Design and Manufacturing

CAD (Computer Aided Design) – The use of computer programs and systems to design two- and three-dimensional models of physical objects, with a wide range of applications, including jewelry, automotive, aerospace, industrial, and architectural design.

CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) – In jewelry design, the application of computer software to control tools, lathes, and welding machinery to manufacture physical models based on components generated by CAD software.

Rapid Prototype – A computer-generated three-dimensional model created rapidly from a CAD image.

Casting – The method of reproducing an object as a mold, in which metal, plaster, or other material is shaped by pouring it into the cavity of the mold where it sets over time.

Wax Milling – The process of using a wax milling machine to form a wax model of a CAD image, which can then be casted.

Laser Scanning – The use of laser technology to capture surface areas of an object for representation in a digital, three-dimensional design. Scans can be further developed using rapid prototype machines and other CAD/CAM software.

Jewelry Tradework, Design, and Restoration

Alloy – A mixture of two or more metals created to enhance the strength and/or appearance of a particular metal.

Box Chain – A classic chain with small box-like links.

Brushed Finish – A firm metal brush creates tiny grooves in the surface of the metal to add texture. This effect slightly reduces the reflection of the metal and creates a wispy, feathery look

Cable Chain – Metal ovals are strung together in a rotating pattern to create this chain.

Casting – Molten metal is poured into a mold and allowed to cool, producing a raw piece of metal which takes the shape of the mold design.

Chasing – A decorative engraving with intricate detail.

Curb Link Chain – Oval links interweave to form a long metal chain.

Diamond-cut Finish – Created by cutting the metal with a diamond.

Facet – The flat polished surface of a diamond or gemstone.

Florentine Finish – The texture on the surface of metal featuring small, engraved lines in a crosshatch
pattern.

Foxtail Chain – Designed by interweaving bent circles of metal together in a continuous pattern.

Green Gold – Pure gold combined with an alloy of silver, copper, and zinc.

Herringbone Chain – A flexible chain that lies flat around the neck.

High-polish Finish – Metal with a shiny, reflective surface.

Milgrain – A decorative technique in which a beaded design is impressed into the metal.

Omega Chain – Small, rectangular pieces of metal linked together on a flexible wire that is invisible to the
eye; arched on top, the chain links lay flat against the neck.

Pink Gold – Pure gold combined with large amounts of copper; also called Rose or Red Gold.

Rhodium – A shiny platinum group metal that increases whiteness and strength of other metals, and helps to prevent tarnishing.

Rope Chain – Several strips of metal twisted together, creating a rope pattern.

Satin Finish – A finish that adds texture with small grooves in the surface of the metal; reduces the reflectivity of metal and creates a soft sheen.

Slide – A piece of jewelry that slides onto an omega chain and acts as the centerpiece.

Soldering – The process of melting metal and joining material together to assemble, repair, or adjust jewelry.

Wheat Chain – A durable chain made up of interweaving bands of metal, resembling a grain of wheat.

White Gold – Pure gold combined with a copper, zinc, and nickel (or palladium) alloy.

Yellow Gold – Pure gold combined with copper and silver; yellow gold retains a rich yellow color and is more durable than 24-karat pure gold.

Stone Cutting

Ascher Cut – A square step-cut stone, with cut corners making eight edges around the girdle.

Baguette – A small rectangular-shaped gemstone; baguettes are step cuts, generally small in size.

Brilliant-cut – A way in which diamonds are cut; shapes include round, oval, teardrop, pear, princess, radiant, triangle, heart, and marquise.

Cabochon-cut – A common cut for gemstones; the stone displays a smooth, rounded surface.

Cushion-cut – A type of cut in which a four-sided stone has smooth, rounded edges.

Emerald-cut – The stone is rectangular or square with beveled corners and a step cut.

Facets – The flat surfaces on a cut stone.

Marquise – A type of cut in which the stone is elongated and pointed at both ends.

Oval – A stone with an elongated round shape; a popular cut for colored stones.

Princess cut – A square or rectangular-shaped modified diamond.

Radiant-cut –An eight-sided, rectangular or square-cut stone with approximately 70 facets.

Step-cut – A way in which diamonds are cut, featuring rows of facets positioned in a step-like fashion.

Table – The top surface of a cut gemstone or diamond.

Tapered Baguette – The short sides are not even in length, causing the two long sides to taper towards the shorter end.

Stone Setting

Bead Setting – A decorative setting in which stones are set evenly with the metal surface and secured by small metal bead-like prongs.

Bezel – The rim of the jewelry that holds the stone and surrounds the stone completely.

Burnished Setting – A method of setting in which the diamond is set flush with the surface of the metal.

Buttercup – A six-prong setting, with tall prongs, resembling a flower.

Cathedral Setting – Cathedral-like arches rise above the band on either side of the stone.

Channel Setting – Setting gemstones in a channel (two walls of metal) between which a gem is set so it appears suspended in a groove.

Chaton Setting – A form of prong setting with many small prongs around the entire gemstone.

Cluster Setting – Several stones that are grouped together for a unique design or to look like one large stone.

Flush Setting – Holes are cut in the surface of the metal; stones are placed inside. Only the tops of the stones are visible, and their tables are even with the surface of the metal.

Glue Setting – This setting is used when stones are attached to metal by strong glue adhesive, rather than prongs or other metal settings.

Half-bezel Setting – Metal wraps around either side of the stone's girdle, rather than around the entire stone.

Half-channel Setting – Either side of a stone is bordered and secured by a strip of metal.

Inlaid Setting – A portion of the metal setting has been cut away and replaced by a stone; the stones are flush with the metal surface.

Invisible Setting – Several stones are mounted together by metal under the stones; the stones appear as if they have no setting at all.

Nick Setting – Similar to the channel setting, stones are placed in a row, with metal bordering either side. In a nick setting, small prongs are nicked from the surrounding metal to secure the stones.

Pavé Setting – Multiple small stones set in a curved or flat surface and held in place by prongs. The tables of the stones are level with the jewelry surface.

Prong Setting – A stone resting in a metal base with prongs that extend to its girdle to securely hold it in place.

Solitaire – A single diamond or gem set by itself in mounting.

Tension Setting – A stone is held on either side by the metal setting. Nearly the entire stone is exposed.


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