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Glossary
Appraisals
Colored Stones and Diamonds
Corporate Design
Custom Design and Manufacturing
Jewelry Tradework, Design, and Restoration
Stone Cutting
Stone Setting
Appraisals
Blemish – Imperfections found on the external surface of a diamond.
Brilliance – The light that is reflected from the diamond to the eye, or the amount of sparkle for a particular diamond.
Carat – A unit of measurement of weight for diamonds and gemstones. Diamonds can range from small fractions of a carat to many carats. (See Four Cs below.)
Certification – A certification presents an objective description of the individual qualities that determine a diamond's value and worth, as evaluated by professional gemologists.
Clarity Grade – A category used to describe the amount or absence of inclusions within a diamond or other gemstone.
Color Grade – A category used to describe the amount or absence of color, typically yellow, within a diamond or other gemstone.
Diamond Clarity – The amount or absence of inclusions in and blemishes on a diamond, ranging from flawless to included/imperfect. (See Four Cs below.)
Diamond Color – The amount of body color (tint) in a diamond on a scale from colorless to yellow/brown or gray. (See Four Cs below.)
Diamond Cut – Cut refers to the proportions of a stone, facet angles, finish and shape. (See Four Cs below.)
Flawless – The highest grading on the clarity scale. A flawless diamond has no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification.
Four Cs – The four distinct characteristics that classify each diamond. These are: cut, color, clarity and carat weight. Using these classifications, appraisers establish the value and quality of diamonds.
Gemologist – A specialist in gems; one who appraises gems.
Inclusions – Natural characteristics found in nearly all diamonds, formed during crystallization. Some are microscopic and cannot be seen with the naked eye.
Karat – The standard measurement of gold.
Loupe – A magnification tool used to analyze gemstones, diamonds, and other jewelry materials.
Luster – Depth and hue of the reflection from opals, pearls, or other opaque stone jewelry.
Colored Stones, Gemstones, and Diamonds
Aquamarine – A blue-green mineral from the beryl family.
Amethyst – A purple form of quartz.
Blue Topaz – The most common form of topaz.
Citrine – A yellow variety of quartz.
Diamond – The hardest known natural mineral.
Emerald – A member of the beryl family, found in all shades of green.
Garnet – A reddish-brown stone. Less common varieties are found in all colors except blue.
Onyx – A black gemstone.
Opal – A gemstone made of the mineral hydrated silica, noted for its iridescence.
Mohs Scale – Devised by German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs, the Mohs Scale grades minerals on a comparative scale from 1 (very soft) to 10 (very hard).
Peridot – A gemstone known for its yellow-green color.
Ruby – The red form of the mineral, corundum; the second-known hardest mineral, along with sapphires.
Sapphire – A form of corundum, in every color except red. Sapphires, along with rubies, are the second-known hardest mineral.
Tanzanite – Known for its bluish-purple hues; a fairly new gemstone discovered in Tanzania in 1967.
Tourmaline – A heat-resistant, durable gemstone that occurs in more colors or combination of colors than any other gemstone.
Corporate Design
3D Casting – Casting technique to create three-dimensional sculptured effects using deep dimensions and relief, which can enhance emblematic jewelry.
Lost Wax Casting – The method of casting intricate metal shapes, especially emblems and corporate designs, by creating a wax model, covering it with a refractory to make a mold, applying heat to melt the wax away, and pouring melted metal into the cavity of the new mold.
Etching – A precise form of engraving fine details on metal using acid.
Die Struck – A technique used to create deep recesses in metal to accept paint, achieving a multidimensional effect ideal for emblems with light detail.
Inlay – A technique in which pieces of materials are inserted into depressions of a jewelry piece to form patterns or pictures.
Relief Engraving – The removal of the background, or negative space, leaving a raised design; quality relief engraving produces a deeply cut background with a flat bottom and sharp, smooth sidewalls.
Custom Design and Manufacturing
CAD (Computer Aided Design) – The use of computer programs and systems to design two- and three-dimensional models of physical objects, with a wide range of applications, including jewelry, automotive, aerospace, industrial, and architectural design.
CAM (Computer Aided Manufacturing) – In jewelry design, the application of computer software to control tools, lathes, and welding machinery to manufacture physical models based on components generated by CAD software.
Rapid Prototype – A computer-generated three-dimensional model created rapidly from a CAD image.
Casting – The method of reproducing an object as a mold, in which metal, plaster, or other material is shaped by pouring it into the cavity of the mold where it sets over time.
Wax Milling – The process of using a wax milling machine to form a wax model of a CAD image, which can then be casted.
Laser Scanning – The use of laser technology to capture surface areas of an object for representation in a digital, three-dimensional design. Scans can be further developed using rapid prototype machines and other CAD/CAM software.
Jewelry Tradework, Design, and Restoration
Alloy – A mixture of two or more metals created to enhance the strength and/or appearance of a particular metal.
Box Chain – A classic chain with small box-like links.
Brushed Finish – A firm metal brush creates tiny grooves in the surface of the metal to add texture. This effect slightly reduces the reflection of the metal and creates a wispy, feathery look
Cable Chain – Metal ovals are strung together in a rotating pattern to create this chain.
Casting – Molten metal is poured into a mold and allowed to cool, producing a raw piece of metal which takes the shape of the mold design.
Chasing – A decorative engraving with intricate detail.
Curb Link Chain – Oval links interweave to form a long metal chain.
Diamond-cut Finish – Created by cutting the metal with a diamond.
Facet – The flat polished surface of a diamond or gemstone.
Florentine Finish – The texture on the surface of metal featuring small, engraved lines in a crosshatch
pattern.
Foxtail Chain – Designed by interweaving bent circles of metal together in a continuous pattern.
Green Gold – Pure gold combined with an alloy of silver, copper, and zinc.
Herringbone Chain – A flexible chain that lies flat around the neck.
High-polish Finish – Metal with a shiny, reflective surface.
Milgrain – A decorative technique in which a beaded design is impressed into the metal.
Omega Chain – Small, rectangular pieces of metal linked together on a flexible wire that is invisible to the
eye; arched on top, the chain links lay flat against the neck.
Pink Gold – Pure gold combined with large amounts of copper; also called Rose or Red Gold.
Rhodium – A shiny platinum group metal that increases whiteness and strength of other metals, and helps to prevent tarnishing.
Rope Chain – Several strips of metal twisted together, creating a rope pattern.
Satin Finish – A finish that adds texture with small grooves in the surface of the metal; reduces the reflectivity of metal and creates a soft sheen.
Slide – A piece of jewelry that slides onto an omega chain and acts as the centerpiece.
Soldering – The process of melting metal and joining material together to assemble, repair, or adjust jewelry.
Wheat Chain – A durable chain made up of interweaving bands of metal, resembling a grain of wheat.
White Gold – Pure gold combined with a copper, zinc, and nickel (or palladium) alloy.
Yellow Gold – Pure gold combined with copper and silver; yellow gold retains a rich yellow color and is more durable than 24-karat pure gold.
Stone Cutting
Ascher Cut – A square step-cut stone, with cut corners making eight edges around the girdle.
Baguette – A small rectangular-shaped gemstone; baguettes are step cuts, generally small in size.
Brilliant-cut – A way in which diamonds are cut; shapes include round, oval, teardrop, pear, princess, radiant, triangle, heart, and marquise.
Cabochon-cut – A common cut for gemstones; the stone displays a smooth, rounded surface.
Cushion-cut – A type of cut in which a four-sided stone has smooth, rounded edges.
Emerald-cut – The stone is rectangular or square with beveled corners and a step cut.
Facets – The flat surfaces on a cut stone.
Marquise – A type of cut in which the stone is elongated and pointed at both ends.
Oval – A stone with an elongated round shape; a popular cut for colored stones.
Princess cut – A square or rectangular-shaped modified diamond.
Radiant-cut –An eight-sided, rectangular or square-cut stone with approximately 70 facets.
Step-cut – A way in which diamonds are cut, featuring rows of facets positioned in a step-like fashion.
Table – The top surface of a cut gemstone or diamond.
Tapered Baguette – The short sides are not even in length, causing the two long sides to taper towards the shorter end.
Stone Setting
Bead Setting – A decorative setting in which stones are set evenly with the metal surface and secured by small metal bead-like prongs.
Bezel – The rim of the jewelry that holds the stone and surrounds the stone completely.
Burnished Setting – A method of setting in which the diamond is set flush with the surface of the metal.
Buttercup – A six-prong setting, with tall prongs, resembling a flower.
Cathedral Setting – Cathedral-like arches rise above the band on either side of the stone.
Channel Setting – Setting gemstones in a channel (two walls of metal) between which a gem is set so it appears suspended in a groove.
Chaton Setting – A form of prong setting with many small prongs around the entire gemstone.
Cluster Setting – Several stones that are grouped together for a unique design or to look like one large stone.
Flush Setting – Holes are cut in the surface of the metal; stones are placed inside. Only the tops of the stones are visible, and their tables are even with the surface of the metal.
Glue Setting – This setting is used when stones are attached to metal by strong glue adhesive, rather than prongs or other metal settings.
Half-bezel Setting – Metal wraps around either side of the stone's girdle, rather than around the entire stone.
Half-channel Setting – Either side of a stone is bordered and secured by a strip of metal.
Inlaid Setting – A portion of the metal setting has been cut away and replaced by a stone; the stones are flush with the metal surface.
Invisible Setting – Several stones are mounted together by metal under the stones; the stones appear as if they have no setting at all.
Nick Setting – Similar to the channel setting, stones are placed in a row, with metal bordering either side. In a nick setting, small prongs are nicked from the surrounding metal to secure the stones.
Pavé Setting – Multiple small stones set in a curved or flat surface and held in place by prongs. The tables of the stones are level with the jewelry surface.
Prong Setting – A stone resting in a metal base with prongs that extend to its girdle to securely hold it in place.
Solitaire – A single diamond or gem set by itself in mounting.
Tension Setting – A stone is held on either side by the metal setting. Nearly the entire stone is exposed.
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